What is Movement in Bouldering?
In defining movement, we acknowledge that movement is a broad term that can be defined from multiple perspectives and one should not attempt to define it. That being said, here we go.
Essentially, movement in bouldering is ascension – “achieving the send”. We go into the local bouldering gym ready to climb problems.
For boulderers – movement is a beautiful electrical conversation between: the brain and the body aka the nervous system and the muscular system aka the neuro and the muscular.
We reach, we crimp, we smear, we undercling, we edge, we traverse, we ascend, we move.
Why is Movement Important for Bouldering?
Boulderers are humans. Humans that are able to adapt/evolve. An obvious adaptation/evolution humans are capable of is their ability to enhance neuromuscular pathways.
The pathways that enhance the most are those that are practiced, or moved, the most.
When you think about grip strength for example, boulderers are well known for their high grip strength to muscle size ratio.
Through regular bouldering, the boulderer creates ever-increasing efficiencies in the neuromuscular (brain-body) pathways to the forearm and finger flexor muscles, leading to an ever-increasing ability to recruit motor units in these muscle groups (Note: many, many other adaptations occur neurologically and muscularly).
Due to regular movement, the nervous system can now recruit more muscle cells than it could before, resulting in a hand now capable of crimping the tiniest edge.
How Should Boulderers Move?
An essential part of moving as a boulderer is learning how to move as a boulderer. So to answer the ‘How Should We Move’ question, we thought we’d ask arguably Australia’s best-moving boulderer and Australia’s first Men’s Olympic climbing qualifier, Tom O’Halloran:
“What is the first training tip you’d give a boulderer wanting to take their climbing to the next level?”
“Movement is number 1! Learn how to move.
Ask yourself:
How do the ‘pros’ do a move in the videos? Are they twisting? Keeping their chest high? Swinging their hips or driving through their feet?
Watch what the better climbers in the bouldering gym do.
Training movement and technique may not be as cool as hanging from tiny edges or lifting heavy weights, but it’ll be worth it when you cruise your next project!”
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We can’t wait to Move, Train & Climb with you all.
