Portable finger training for bouldering has never been easier, thanks to the Crux Mini Magboard — a compact tool that packs serious grip gains into your pocket.
The Crux Mini Magboard is a compact, portable hangboard designed for boulderers who want to train finger strength anywhere—no wall required. Weighing just 120g and built from eco-friendly materials, it features adjustable magnetic edge depths (from 20mm to 6mm), a curved comfort edge, and a skin-friendly textured finish. Whether you’re warming up at the crag or squeezing in a session at home, this tool is engineered for serious grip gains.
Why I Chose It
At Bould Move, we’re all about smart, sustainable training. The Crux Mini Magboard stood out because it’s not just another hangboard—it’s a versatile, travel-ready training system. Its magnetic inserts make it easy to scale difficulty, and the build quality is top-tier. Plus, it fits in your training bag. What’s not to love?
How I Use It to Improve Strength
I train with the Crux Mini Magboard 2-3 times per week, using it primarily for finger loading protocols rather than traditional hangs. This approach allows for targeted strength development while minimising joint strain and maximising control.
Training Structure:
- Warm-Up (5–10 mins):
I begin with light mobility and finger activation using the larger edge (20mm) with minimal load—just enough to get blood flowing and prep the tendons.
- Main Loading Sets:
- 3–5 sets of 10-second loaded holds using progressively smaller edges (e.g., 14mm, 10mm, 8mm).
- I use a weight-loading system (stand on 2 boxes, weights in between) to basically perform a deadlift, while holding the Mini Magboard.
- Rest 1–2 minutes between sets to allow full recovery and maintain high intensity.
- Grip Technique:
I focus on half-crimp and open-hand positions, ensuring consistent form and avoiding over-gripping. The magnetic edge inserts make it easy to adjust depth and track progress.
- Progressive Overload:
I increase load gradually each week—either by adding weight or reducing edge depth. This keeps the stimulus challenging and measurable.
Why This Works for Bouldering:
- Loading protocols allow for precise control over intensity, which is ideal for boulderers targeting short, powerful movements.
- It’s safer than hanging, especially for those managing finger injuries or tendon sensitivity.
- The Magboard’s portability means I can train at home, at the gym, or even at the crag.
How I Use It While Injured
During recovery phases, I use the varying depths with minimal load. The smooth texture and ergonomic design reduce strain, making it ideal for rehabbing pulleys or tendons.
Generally, loading my problem finger/s specifically at a variety of finger angles for up to 30 seconds at each angle.
NOTE: If pain worsens with this protocol, I will reduce the load or duration to a level that causes mild discomfort but doesn’t push into pain. Yes – there is sometimes a fine line here. No – you will not always get the right dose.
Summary: 3 Actionable Takeaways for Boulderers
- Incorporate Finger Loading into Your Weekly Routine
You don’t need a full hangboard setup to build finger strength. Use portable tools like the Crux Mini Magboard for 3–4 short sessions per week, focusing on progressive loading with controlled holds. - Track Your Progress with Edge Depth and Load
Instead of guessing your gains, measure them. Use tools with adjustable edge depths and record the weight or resistance used. This helps you scale intensity safely and see tangible improvements over time. - Adapt Your Training During Injury Recovery
Finger injuries don’t mean stopping altogether. Switch to low-load protocols using shallow edges and resistance bands to maintain tendon health and circulation while avoiding strain.
Learn more about the Crux Mini Magboard on the Crux Gear official page.
