Bouldering Training & Why?
If you’re like most boulderers, training involves getting to the local bouldering gym and bouldering. Considering our first training tip was to Move; you have achieved the most important part of bouldering training.
If you do wish to improve as a boulderer however, heading in to your next session with a basic training approach in mind may assist the process.
What does Bouldering Training Look Like?
Bouldering training takes many forms.
It ranges from the ‘natural approach’ of Chris Sharma through to a more ‘clinical approach’ where the boulderer strengthens body parts in isolation as well as on the wall (ie. front lever, single leg squat, etc.). As amazing climbing feats have been reached using both training styles, it shows that
there is not one correct way to train.
An important point to consider if you want to train like the professionals is that – most professionals have been climbing regularly since a young age, or for a long time, and would be averaging several hours daily to their practice.
So their body will have developed the necessary range of motion, endurance, strength, power, power-endurance and skill set to perform as a high level athlete.
So in order for us late-starters and those unable to dedicate big hours to bouldering, we must build ourselves efficiently through well-designed bouldering training plans as well as time on the wall.
What is in a Typical Bould Move Bouldering Training Plan?
Briefly, your Bouldering training should include:
Observation
– Watch the better boulderers in the gym (or online).
Education
– Ask the better boulderers in the gym for advice
– Learn a few types of holds/grips
Technique
– Practice the holds/grips you’ve learned
– Try to copy the better boulderers beta of a problem, as well as your own style..
Always practice your own style!
Do not mimic others unless you want to, not because “you should”.
Endurance Training
– This type of training typically involves higher repetition numbers, or longer duration holds, at a lower load.
Strength
– This type of training involves a moderate number of repetitions, or moderate duration holds, at a moderately heavy load.
Power
– This type of training involves practicing movements at explosive speeds, with or without load, at low repetition numbers.
Power-endurance
– This type of training involves practicing movements at explosive speeds with mod-high repetition numbers.
What level of exertion should one apply to achieve the designated number of repetitions?
This is tough to explain but I hope you get it..I’ll explain from my perspective.
Firstly, I pick some focus point/s of a movement, for example ‘the pull up’. I’ll decide on:
– grip style – sometimes overhand, underhand, alternate..whatever I feel like stressing at the time.
– grip location – whether I’ll be gripping with my palms or fingers.
– grip force – level of finger and forearm flexor contraction to be maintained.
– trunk position – trunk flexed, neutral, extended
– focus point – muscle group to stimulate the most to get me off the ground – sometimes: biceps, rear delts, lats, or all at once equally.
– breath – dissociate breath from the movement OR breathe with the movement, e.g. breathe out as ascending, breathe out on descending.
– get chin over bar – then there are days I don’t think about anything other than – “get chin over bar”.
Secondly, I try to maintain everything I have just planned for as many reps as I can. When I can no longer maintain this ‘form’, I’ll try one more with a bit more central aka mental focus then stop.
So some days i’ll be doing band-assisted pull ups to achieve a higher number of reps; some days i’ll be adding a weight belt around my waist.
To summarise – I do pull ups until I can no longer do them the way I initially intended…because of exhaustion (central aka mental and/or muscular).
How to Start?
To start, we encourage firstly observation & education as explained above by learning and practicing a few holds and grips. This will improve your grip strength and techniques, as well as develop your ‘eye’ for the problem ahead.
How?
1. Review a few holds/grips.
2. After your usual warm-up, spend the next 5-20 minutes identifying and then trying a few of the holds/grips.
3. Enjoy the remainder of your bouldering session with your own natural style, while applying your newly found grips and techniques here and there.
Note:
– We do not encourage following a formula to improve your bouldering.
– There is no right or wrong way to boulder, and we strongly encourage that you apply your natural technique, especially as a beginner.
– If this approach takes away from your enjoyment of the sport please do not do it.
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We can’t wait to bring our training ideas, plans and facilities to you all.
